80s sneakers - trendsetters that became cult
Helmut Kohl, the Walkman, Dirty Dancing, Depeche Mode - the 80s were a decade of innovations and the leap from the industrial to the digital age happened faster than Kristin Otto swam to gold in 1988. The sneaker industry developed similarly quickly in the 1980s. While the 70s saw a rather monotonous canvas festival around the Converse One Star, Vans Old Skool and Sk8 Hi, Nike Bruin or Pro-Keds Royal Master, footwear technology took off like the first space shuttle in the following decade.
Hardly any decade has produced more cult sneakers than the 80s - time to pay tribute to them. The 80s Kids from STAB Berlin have compiled the ultimate list of all 80s sneakers that inspired us to do more with sneakers than just wear them.
The best running sneakers of the 80s
Saucony Jazz (1981)
When you look at footwear history, Saucony is almost older than time. Founded in 1898, the brand went through various transformations before establishing itself as one of the most important running brands on the market in the 70s. By 1981, the Jazz was top of the line in terms of running shoes and has since established itself as one of the most iconic silhouettes from the 80s.
New Balance 576 (1982)
What would a best-of of cult sneakers from the 80s be without New Balance? That's right, bullshit. The 576 was one of New Balance's first Made in UK models and the big brother of the 574. One of the most timeless designs New Balance ever launched.
Nike Air Pegasus (1983)
Streamline design, big Swoosh, three-part sole - the Air Pegasus from 1984 is still one of the most important running designs Nike ever launched. The zigzag lacing and the waffle sole have since been found in various newer Nike models. A stylish cult sneaker that unfortunately never got the love it deserved.
adidas L.A. Trainer (1984)
You've probably wondered what the three "dots" in the midsole of the L.A. Trainer are for. They are Adidas' so-called "Peg Cushioning System" that was used for a few years. The shoe itself was developed as part of the Adidas performance offensive for the 1984 Olympic Games in, surprise surprise, Los Angeles and has since become a true lifestyle classic.
adidas Micropacer (1984)
The name says it all and the shoe lives up to everything its look promises, even more. The first shoe to actively integrate technology into a sports shoe, the Adidas Micropacer had a mini-computer built in from the factory that calculated steps, distance, speed and even calories burned. It was controlled by a microchip in the forefoot. All this in 1984.
adidas ZX 500 (1984)
The first ZX and one of the most important running shoes, well, in the history of running shoes. What is now for us a cult sneaker from the 80s was then a cutting edge performance shoe seen on the feet of various athletes. Perhaps one of the most timeless designs to leave the hallowed halls of Herzogenaurach. The mix of materials and the iconic plastic eyelets on the lacing make the ZX500 look as good today as it did in the mid-80s.
adidas Marathon TR (1985)
One of the greatest classics in Adidas' decorated history. The Marathon TR was considered the answer to Nike's Waffle Trainer and marked one of the first true trail running shoes. To call it a cult shoe is an understatement - the sole was full of Trefoils that left Adidas logos wherever you jogged in nature, the legendary "Dellinger Web" around the midsole and a performance-oriented lacing system made the Marathon TR a true home run.
New Balance 1300 (1985)
New Balance wrote running history in the 80s, also regarding the prices of their products. 130 dollars was a lot of money in the 80s and so New Balance manifested their position as a premium sporting goods manufacturer with the 1300 series. The colour blocking and layer design of the 1300s are more relevant today than ever and the timeless approach on the part of New Balance makes the 1300s an absolute cult sneaker of the last 30 years.
Asics and their Gel technology are inseparable today. The starting signal, however, came in 1986 with the Asics GT-II, which quickly brought the Japanese brand among the top brands in the international running business. However, "GT" does not stand for "Gel Technology", but for "Gran Turismo".
New Balance 996 (1987)
"Made in the USA", which is now common practice at New Balance, was only really taken up in 1987 with the 996. While other brands had shoes produced cheaply in the Far East, New Balance not only bought local labour, but also double-page advertisements in various magazines, all under the motto "right here in America".
New Balance 1500 (1988)
STAB Berlin Staff Pick for the best New Balance silhouette ever, but that's another topic. Not a cheap shoe then as now, but then as now you get a lot for your money. Originally released as an entire line, the New Balance 1500 was available as a running shoe, tennis shoe and basketball shoe, and its design still sets the standard today.
Nike Air Stab (1988)
A design classic from Beaverton, Ohio. The material mix of suede and nylon made it just as popular as its visible Air sole and its trademark design. A true performance shoe at the time, today a classic among cult sneakers.
New Balance 577 (1989)
The running company from New England closed the 80s with a real smash hit. The New Balance 577 served as a link between the 500 and 1000 series and was one of the best, if not the best, running shoes on the market. An aggressive design by New Balance standards and still one of the great 80s shoes today.
The best basketball sneakers of the 80s
Nike Air Force 1 (1982)
One of the best selling shoes in history and probably the Nike flagship of the 80s. Named after the US president's plane and a mainstay on the feet of various NBA players in its day, over 1700(!!!) different versions of the Nike Air Force 1 have been brought onto the market to date. The Air Force 1 transcends 80s sneakers, cult sneakers and shoes in general. The importance and impact of this model can hardly be put into words - the Air Force is a way of life.
Air Jordan 1 (1984)
Where to start with the Jordan 1. The ultimate cult sneaker, the ultimate collector's item, the ultimate 80s sneaker(?). Michael Jordan's first Pro Model not only inaugurated perhaps the most legendary signature series of shoes, ever, but with its countless retros, limited editions and collabos is at the absolute top of the collector scene. The birth of the sneaker game as we know it today.
adidas Forum (1984)
As a German sporting goods manufacturer, the Three Stripes were closely associated with football and running for a long time, but the rising popularity of basketball in the 1980s also led Adidas to enter the market. The Adidas Forum marks the first pure basketball shoe from Herzogenaurach, and it was a home run: the high-top design with Velcro fastening above the instep is representative of the footwear aesthetic of the 80s.
Nike Dunk (1986)
The Nike Dunk can safely be called the brother of the Air Jordan 1. Only marginal differences in design and equally small differences in the history of the shoes. While the Air Jordan 1 was produced as a pro model for Michael Jordan, the Nike Dunk was originally produced as a basketball shoe for the best colleges in the USA and made available to the masses in 1986. Iconic design that years later celebrated an explosive revival as a skate shoe.
Nike Air Jordan II (1987)
After the resounding success of the Air Jordan I, Nike launched Michael Jordan's second Pro Model barely three years later. Designed by Peter Moore and Bruce Kilgore, the original Air Jordan II was produced in Italy and came without a swoosh, a bold innovation on Nike's part at the time, as they wanted to strengthen the Jordan Brand outside the Nike bubble.
Air Jordan III (1988)
Twilight of the gods. The third Air Jordan shoe came onto the market just one year after the Jordan II, again without the Swoosh, and marked a turning point in the lives of various people involved in it. Tinker Hatfield made himself an absolute legend with the design of the Air Jordan II, Michael Jordan dedicated his entire footwear life to the Nike brand and Phil Knight, Nike founder, became a billionaire. The first shoe with the legendary "Jumpman" logo and one of the 80s sneakers. Perhaps the most important Air Jordan shoe ever.
Air Jordan IV (1989)
The Air Jordan IV just makes it into the list of 80s shoes. The second Tinker Hatfield design of the Air Jordan series saw the light of day in 1989 and brought something like aesthetic coherence to the successful footwear line for the first time. The relationship with the Air Jordan II is immediately obvious, only the materials were kept lighter and more performance-oriented. The first Air Jordan to be available on the global market and a real box office hit.
Reebok The Pump (1989)
One of the revolutions on the footwear market in the 80s and one of the absolute cult sneakers from Reebok. The Pump technology allows the wearer to inflate the inner part of the shoe and thus adapt it perfectly to the foot. It goes without saying that Reebok turned not only the basketball market but also the sneaker world in general upside down.
And more cult models from the 80s
Reebok Ex-O-Fit (1983)
The absolute aerobic shoe. What is now a strange, almost trashy, relic from the 80s was the absolute mega trend back then and the Ex-O-Fit was the reason why Reebok became the absolute market leader of the aerobics movement, similar to what the British company managed to do in the Crossfit scene today.
Nike Air Max 1 (1987)
Inspired by the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris, Tinker Hatfield turned Nike's (and the industry's) future upside down in 1987 when he gave the world the first visible Air Pad. What had previously been hidden behind EVA foam now came to light. What followed were merely the most important developments in sole technology before 2013. One of the most important 80s shoes and still the most worn Air Max today. Rightly so.
Reebok Workout (1987)
The Reebok Classic. Not much more needs to be said about the Workout, except that it was originally called "Workout" and was launched in 1987. One of the biggest cult sneakers, not only of the 80s, but of all times.
Nike Air Trainer (1987)
You almost guessed it, the Nike Air Trainer from 1987 is a Tinker Hatfield design. At that time the first cross training shoe and later the on court model of tennis star Joh McEnroe. Nike's absolute all-purpose weapon and still one of the most copied 80s sneakers. Unfortunately, it often doesn't get the love it deserves.
adidas Campus II (1987)
The Campus as we know it today and now one of the absolute lifestyle shoes from Adidas. But that wasn't always the case. Originally released under the name "Tournament" (and as a basketball shoe), it took the Beastie Boys and the cover of their "Check Your Head" album to make the Adidas Campus the definitive cult sneaker.
adidas Gazelle (1991)
A retro sneaker classic from 1966 with a new design in 1991 conquers the clubs & streets of the metropolises again. Hip-hop legends like Run-DMC with their song "My Adidas" or model Kate Moss made the Gazelle famous in the 80s and 90s.